Ypres, 1914-2014

Ypres is a city that suffered tremendously during the first World War. It was in Ypres when chemical weapons were used for the first time (Yperite) and the city was completely destroyed after three important battles. Approximately half-million people died in the fields of Ypres from both sides, (mainly British and Germans, although I have found other reports with much higher numbers). The sheer size of total destruction would only be surpassed during the Second World War. After the war, the city was rebuilt, trying to look as close as possible as it was before the war. Today, Ypres is a tourist destination mainly for British nationals and history buffs. Although, I consider Ypres as an underrated destination, the city will attract a considerable influx of tourist due to the commemorations of the centennial of the WWI. 

I found Ypres quite charming small city. The main attraction is the Flanders Fields Museum. They did a commendable effort to explain the atrocities of the war in an interesting way. The museum is frequently visited by British students and by descendants and families of those who perished in the fields of Flanders.  The museum has a "soundtrack" which I found very sad and in combination with the emotive visitors could be too much for a sensible person. An acquaintance told me that it was produced by the British band "Tindersticks" specially for the museum. You could climb the tower inside the Museum and have a fantastic view of the city. 

One of the highlights of a visiting Ypres is the Last Post Ceremony that takes place every day at 8:00 p.m. at the Menin Gate Memorial. It is a very emotive ceremony to remember those soldiers who died for the freedom of Ypres. You need to be aware that every tourist in town will attend to this ceremony, so if you want to see "something" you'd better arrive very early. I went at 7:00 p.m. and it was already crowded. Despite the rudeness of some travelers, I will say that if you go to Ypres and do not go to this ceremony you are missing something special.

Ypres has beautiful churches and well kept military cemeteries. St Martin's Cathedral is an extraordinary example of the resilient spirit of the inhabitants of Ypres. I found the church beautifully restored and very solemn. Another interesting church is the St George Memorial Church. It is an Anglican church that also serves as a memorial for the fallen Commonwealth soldiers. It is decorated with gifts from the families and military divisions/institutions. Within the city limits there are two cemeteries that you could visit: Ypres Reservoir Cemetery (only from outside) and the Rampart Cemetery Lille Gate.

I suggest to spend one night in Ypres since it is relatively far away from Brussels. The best day is Saturday and it is even better if you could be there for the morning market. The market itself is an attraction and if it is sunny you could go to the restaurant In t'klein Stadhuis and ask for a delicious Rundsstoofvlees made with a Trappist Rochefort. You will not regret it. As it is customary in Belgium there are plenty of places when you could buy excellent chocolate. You could combine a visit to Ypres with a visit to Lille (one hour, eleven minutes) or Courtrai (thirty minutes). If you decide to go to Courtrai, there is a place where they sell burgers with spicy chocolate sauce! (Paul's Boutique). Ypres is an excellent destination, do not miss the chance to visit the city in this historical moment.