Sometimes, Paris disappoints. If you are a romantic person who has high expectations for Paris, you might end up downhearted by mass tourism. Everyone wants to have their own "Montmatre" moment, admire quietly the Monalisa, have a coffee in a Parisian terrace while watching people go by. And, when I say everyone, I mean you and the 33 million tourist that visit the city every year. Fortunately, there is still a place in France when you could fulfill your bourgeois fantasies: Lyon.
A common cliché in France is claiming that Lyon is a miniaturized Paris. You have the rivers Rhône and Saône (Paris has only one, the Seine), your lyonais version of Sacre Coeur (Notre-Dame de Fourvière) and your mini Louvre (le Musée de Beaux Arts). Nevertheless, I would say that Lyon is more than a mini Paris; the city has its own personality. You can notice the proximity to Switzerland and Italy. The vibe is quite unique; a city that it is rich as well as elegant.
The "Italian" part of the city is definitely Vieux Lyon. Apparently this area was built by Florentine immigrants. It is in this part of the city where you could find the famous Traboules which are a kind of hidden passageways that connect different sections of Vieux Lyon. You can book a guided tour at the Tourist Office to explore them, although you should be in good shape if you decide to do the tour.
Another highlight is the Musée de Beaux Arts de Lyon which is near the Place des Terreaux, a beautiful and elegant place with great atmosphere. Of course, this museum is not way near the Louvre, but its small size in my opinion could be an advantage. You can visit it in one afternoon and enjoy a peaceful moment at the museum. In my humble opinion, its most magnificent painting is the "San Francisco" from Francisco de Zurbarán. I am very biased since Zurbarán is one of my favorite painters, You can see another Zurbarán's painting in my review about Oviedo.
Take the funicular, and a wonderful view of Lyon is waiting for you at Notre-Dame de Fourvière. From outside, the Basilica looks sort of austere but from inside it is profusely decorated. It seems that it was made to impress ; it gave me the same sensation I had when I visited Montreal's Saint Joseph Oratory. Although the views are gorgeous, the mismatched style of the building could be unsettling. Fortunately, le Musée Gallo-Romain de Lyon is near by, so you can regain peace of mind by contemplating ancient art and visiting a Roman theater.
Go with an empty stomach to Lyon. Lyon is the gourmet capital of France. Some of the most beloved French dishes come from here. Make sure you visit a "bouchon" a traditional restaurant lyonnais. Keep in mind that lyonnaise cuisine is hearty, they use intensively meat, fat and wine. I recommend le Bouchon des Filles if you want a "lighter" version of the traditional meals. Furthermore, Lyon beats Paris in having one of the most awe-inspiring gourmet markets: Les Halles de Lyon de Paul Bocuse. The market is named in honor of Paul Bocuse, one of the pioneers of the nouvelle cuisine and probably the most famous chef of France. In this market you must buy brioche aux pralines roses, cheeses, sausages and desserts. It is impossible to visit Lyon on a diet.
If you spend more than a couple of days and/or you go when there is good weather, you should visit le Parc Tête d'Or, another sight where Lyon outdoes Paris. There is also the new neighborhood called "La Confluence" for those who love modern architecture. I must confess that I am not a big fan, but it could be "interesting" because of the new museum. Keeping with the theme of Lyon as a mini Paris, la Confluence is Lyon's answer to La Defense of Paris (although it is not a financial center).
In summary, Lyon offers you the "real deal", the French experience that you are craving for. It is romantic, elegant and chic, especially at night when the light of the street lamps create this magical atmosphere at the docks of the Saône river.
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