Monschau, A Christmas Market Destination

It is quite probable that you have never heard about Monschau. I mean, many people who live in Liège, which is the neighboring province in Belgium, don't know that this town exist. Monschau is a small village (less than 15,000 inhabitants), next to the Belgium-German border in an area called Eifel. If you don't own a car, it is very difficult to reach this village; you need a bus/train combination that is risky. However, Monschau has one of the most charming Christmas markets in Germany that is totally worth the effort. 

In my opinion, the best time to visit Monschau is obviously during Christmas. Nevertheless, the town has a castle (on a mountain), that apparently offers concerts of classical music in summer. There are a few attractions in the city. The main one is the Red House, which was a mansion that belonged to a rich merchant and it was built in the eighteen century. It is the most impressive building in the town; you can see how was the life of the wealthy people more than two centuries ago It has all the original furniture. Unfortunately you could only visit it between April and November. The best moment to visit Monschau is the last weekend of November when you can enjoy the Christmas market and visit the Red House. 

In addition to the Red house, there are several nice but small churches that are good to visit. The most interesting one is the protestant church that is connected by a small bridge. It is very small but I will say, it has a very warm feeling. In my opinion, the timber houses is what makes Monschau special. Monschau was spared for the destruction that took place during the World War II. I recommend to take some time to wonder and see the beauty of the town.

If you go for the Christmas market, there are several things that you should keep in mind. The markets are spread all around the town, You can find stands even inside some buildings. In addition to the traditional Christmas ornaments, you could find gourmet food and other specialty goods. The best souvenirs are Monschau Mustard (several varieties, the most delicious are the one with honey and poppy-seeds or the one with Riesling), bread (go to Hensch, people go there to buy bread made in stone oven), Printen, Elder-flower syrop (homemade) and several kinds of pastries with apple.  Try the mulled wine, the chocolate with alcohol, the kartoffelpuffer mit apfelmus (pankakes made of potatoes with apple sauce), champignons, and a large diversity of sausages.

If you do not own a car and your departure point is Belgium I will explain you how to get there. This only works on weekends and it is risky. If there is a delay in the train you might have to take a cab. Take a train to Eupen (you should arrive at least 5 minutes before 10 a.m.). In front of the train station there is street with a bus stop. The stop is in the same street but not exactly in front of the train station, you can see it from the window of the train if you are seated in the first wagons.  You need to take the 385 towards Monschau.  To go back, you need to take the same bus. The last departure is at 15:33. If you miss that bus, you can always go to Aachen and take the train there to Belgium (if you departure point is Belgium). However, I think the last bus to Aachen is at 19:25 (check Deutsche Bahn for details). It would be safer to go by car o with an organized excursion. Since I do not own a car, I took the risk every year, without problem. 

Pamplona, beyond San Fermin

Monumento al Encierro

I have been traveling a lot lately, gathering new material for this blog. This post is about Pamplona, the capital of Navarra, Spain. This small town is well known worldwide due to the festivities of San Fermin. For those of you who have never heard of San Fermin I am including this link.

Tourists visit the city  during the festivities (6 to 14 of July), most of them get so drunk that probably don't even remember that they were in Pamplona. It is well known fact that many locals leave the city in July to avoid the crowds. I have been in Pamplona three times but never during San Fermin, so I do not know how crazy it could be. Nevertheless, I can assure you that Pamplona is a pleasant small city to visit outside the touristic season.

Navarra is part of the basque region that includes the Basque country in Spain and part of France (Bayonne, Biarritz and other towns). You could hear people speaking Euskera although less frequent than in Donostia (San Sebastian). Euskera is a very difficult language that does not come from Latin or any Germanic language.  Apparently it is a native language of the Iberian peninsula. Navarra was an independent country for many years and in one period of history the Kings of France were also crowned Kings of Navarra. This is probably one of the reasons that explain why the people of Navarra and the Basque country have a different status (Fueros) within the Spanish autonomic system. Pamplona in Euskera is Iruña.

Most of the city's medieval walls are still in place today. In my opinion it is one of its most important attractions. You can walk along the walls and admire these military structures and the parks that are next to them. Pamplona has several churches that are worth visiting. Of course the principal is Pamplona's Cathedral. In my opinion, I found the interior much more interesting than the exterior.The interior is Gothic while the exterior seems Neoclassic, they do not match at all. The main square, la Plaza del Castillo, is the best place to sit, relax, grab a coffee and eat pintxos while you watch the world go by  (I enjoyed Cafe Iruña, despite some of the bad reviews in Tripadvisor, apparently Hemingway also liked this place).

Plaza del Castillo

Tomb of the King of Navarra Charles III and his Wife inside Pamplona's Cathedral

Pamplona has a small and eclectic Art museum. Most or the Art correspond to the Romanesque and Gothic styles (there is also a  beautiful Goya inside). As you can imagine, in medieval times, artists were focused in expressing religious sentiments, sometimes with  very sadistic overtones, consider yourself warned. Pamplona has a close connection with the Catholic church. For example, Josemaría Escrivá de Balaguer, the founder of the Opus Dei movement, was also the founder of the Universidad de Navarra, one of the best private universities in Spain.

Another important venue that deserves a visit is the Gayarre Theater.  If you know Spanish (or Euskera) it is a good place to watch a play or an spectacle. Finally, I have always eaten very well in Pamplona (A good restaurant is Otano). The pinxos (tapas) are as delicious as in San Sebastian but cheaper. You could always  find good wine that marry well with the food, probably due to the proximity of La Rioja. My recommendation is to visit Pamplona for maximum two nights. You could easily spend in the area four to five nights, if you visit other cities. For instance, the bus between San Sebastian and Pamplona takes one hour and San Sebastian is a great choice. One final suggestion: avoid talking about politics, it is better to remain neutral. 

Aachen, the former capital of Europe

Aquisgrana, Aquisgrán, Aix-la-Chapelle, Aachen, a city that has many names and a long history. It was my inspiration for starting this blog about underrated cities. Aachen was the chosen city of Charlemagne to expand his European Empire, making the city the second historical "capital of Europe" (after Rome) and the place of coronation of 31 German Kings.  The city is located close to Maastricht (Netherlands) and Liège (Belgium) in an area called Meuse-Rhine Euroregio. 

Charlemagne built his palace in Aachen and filled it with treasures. Although the palace no longer exists, its former chapel became Aachen's Cathedral. During the middle ages, the most important treasures were relics that belonged to Jesus, his disciples or his family. Well, believe it or not, Aachen has Jesus'diapers , Jesus'underwear (loincloth), Virgin Mary's dress and the blanket used to hold John's head. How these items came there,  it is a mystery for me. These sacred objects are under custody inside the Cathedral and are only displayed in a ceremony that takes place every seven years. You could also find a fragment of Peter's chain that was used to hold him in Rome, a piece of the sponge used for giving water to Jesus, many Saint's bones and body parts (yuppie!). Charlemagne's remains are in a golden sarcophagus also inside the Cathedral. Most of the Cathedral's treasure is displayed in a separate building and it is one of the largest of the Christendom. The church was built in a byzantine style and it is a Unesco World Heritage. 

This is a "romantic" representation of Charlemagne (according to the audio guide, Charlemagne did not look like that)

Cathedral's interior. Observe the byzantine mosaics of the arcs

In addition to the Cathedral's treasury, Aachen has two art Museums (Suermondt-Ludwig Museum, Ludwig Forum), the Couven Museum (an old mansion transformed into a museum) and the International News Paper Museum. You can also visit the Town Hall that was formerly part of the  Charlemagne's palace. My favorite museum is the Ludwig Forum. This institution is located in a former factory built in a Bauhaus style and it has an amazing art collection from the twentieth century. Recently I realized t that the museum is linked with the Ludwig Museum in Cologne. The Ludwig Forum has three floors although the last two are closed (apparently for renovations). Nevertheless, the lions's share is in the first floor and the basement.

The Ludwig has an incredible collection of Pop Art, (Roy Liechtenstein), graffiti art from the New York of the 80's, well-known names as Ai Weiwei among others. The collection is huge and changes every season. Some of the art in the Ludwig is intended to shock the visitor, thus consider you warned. Surprisingly, this museum is usually empty (although the last time I visit the Ludwig there were more than 10 people). The reason is simple, it is located outside Aachen's downtown (20 minutes walk) and honestly it is not well advertised by the tourism office. For those of you who like modern art, this is a mandatory stop. The museum has also a large video collection. One of my favorites is Susan Pitt's Asparagus (1978), a kind of psychological film with plenty sexual symbolism. The film is projected in a small room with three movie seats. In front of you there is a miniature theater that has the screen where the film is projected. I have always felt weird there, as if I was in David Lynch's "silencio" theater (For those of you who saw Mulholland Drive).

Town Hall of Aachen, former part of Charlemagne Museum

Some of the art work is provocative

Hasta la Victoria Secret?

Never go shopping with an empty stomach

In addition to the museums, Aachen has interesting neighborhoods (Frankenberger Viertel, Burtscheid), a great diversity of restaurants (my favorites are Aachener Brauhaus and Karibik colombian food) and of course a wonderful Christmas market.  It is one of the best I have been. During Christmas you could eat flammkuchen, champignons, special sausages among others special treats and drink hot wine, punch or chocolate. Aachen's main local product is the "Aachener printen" which is similar to the Lebkuchen. It is a soft sweet cookie (or bread?) that you could buy covered in dark, milk or white chocolate. Printens are available the whole year, but they are must in Christmas. The main companies producing printen are Aachener Printen and Nobis. An insider tip is that there is a Kaufhof store in Aachen where you could buy holunderblütensirup and Händlmaier mustard. However, the best mustard is Monschau's sweet mustard; you could find it in the butcher's shop Fleischerei Gerrards (much more easier than going to Monschau).

I have not written about Aachen's spa tradition. I am not a big fan of spas but for those of you who like these venues, Aachen has a long tradition of thermal baths that started in the Middle ages. The most well known spa is the Carolus.

Aachen is a gem to be discovered, well connected (Paris, Cologne, Brussels, Liège, Maastricht among others) and it is  a very relaxed city. Definitively one of the most underrated cities that I have visited.  

Bratislava deserves a second visit

I start with a confession: the first time I visited Bratislava I did not like it. It was in 2010 after visiting Vienna and Budapest. Therefore, I did not plan to revisit the city again. A friend of mine convinced me to give it a second chance. I went back in 2014 and I am glad I did. In my opinion, as long as you don't try to compare Bratislava with Vienna, Budapest or Prague, you will have better appreciation for the city. Bratislava is small, it does not have the overwhelming opulence of its bigger "sisters" but it makes a great daytrip destination and if by chance you need to take a flight from there do not hesitate to spend sometime wandering in the city. 

The main attraction of Bratislava is the old town. It is small, clean and beautiful. Prices in the old town are higher than in the rest of Bratislava, so it would be a good idea to venture outside the old town for lunch break. I found some interesting gargoyles "observing visitors" from the roof of the houses. On the edge of the old town, there is Bratislava's cathedral (St Martin's). The cathedral is beautifully decorated, it has an interesting treasure and  the choir has many creepy"monsters." You can also visit the church's  catacombs which is quite an experience, specially for the eerie feeling that you will have there.

He was watching me the whole time

The cathedral is next to a highway

This little fella is waiting for you inside the church with all his friends

There is a castle relatively close to the cathedral where apparently visitors could take good pictures of Bratislava;  however the tourist information desk was not to much enthusiastic about this attraction. In addition to the cathedral there were other churches that were worth visiting but the Blue church deserves a special mention. This secessionist building is at walking distance from the old town. The blue church is small and quite extravagant, it reminds me of the modernist buildings in Barcelona.

In addition to the churches, there is the Danubiana, museum of modern art, in the outskirts of the city. Unfortunately when I was in Bratislava the museum was closed. Apparently it has reopened recently. You could go by bus or by boat like the Tate Modern in England. A good  choice for lunch is the Pivoraská Restaurant. It is gastropub relatively close to the city center that offer good beer and local specialties (warning: a paradise for meat lovers). The Hungarian bakery franchise Fornetti is present in the city, it is very cheap and its turnovers are delicious.

If you take the train from Vienna to Bratislava, the train ticket includes the use of all public transportation in Bratislava for that day. I recommend to spend one morning or afternoon in Bratislava unless you visit the Danubiana museum or you take an early flight from Bratislava Airport, then you could stay a little bit longer (maximum one full day). Beware, that the bus that goes from the downtown to the airport is sometimes crowded. It is a good idea to go with extra time to the airport despite the fact that it is relatively close.

Bratislava is a small pleasant city with a lot of potential. It feels that the city is trying to find its niche. I believe it is the right track.

Ypres, 1914-2014

Ypres is a city that suffered tremendously during the first World War. It was in Ypres when chemical weapons were used for the first time (Yperite) and the city was completely destroyed after three important battles. Approximately half-million people died in the fields of Ypres from both sides, (mainly British and Germans, although I have found other reports with much higher numbers). The sheer size of total destruction would only be surpassed during the Second World War. After the war, the city was rebuilt, trying to look as close as possible as it was before the war. Today, Ypres is a tourist destination mainly for British nationals and history buffs. Although, I consider Ypres as an underrated destination, the city will attract a considerable influx of tourist due to the commemorations of the centennial of the WWI. 

I found Ypres quite charming small city. The main attraction is the Flanders Fields Museum. They did a commendable effort to explain the atrocities of the war in an interesting way. The museum is frequently visited by British students and by descendants and families of those who perished in the fields of Flanders.  The museum has a "soundtrack" which I found very sad and in combination with the emotive visitors could be too much for a sensible person. An acquaintance told me that it was produced by the British band "Tindersticks" specially for the museum. You could climb the tower inside the Museum and have a fantastic view of the city. 

One of the highlights of a visiting Ypres is the Last Post Ceremony that takes place every day at 8:00 p.m. at the Menin Gate Memorial. It is a very emotive ceremony to remember those soldiers who died for the freedom of Ypres. You need to be aware that every tourist in town will attend to this ceremony, so if you want to see "something" you'd better arrive very early. I went at 7:00 p.m. and it was already crowded. Despite the rudeness of some travelers, I will say that if you go to Ypres and do not go to this ceremony you are missing something special.

Ypres has beautiful churches and well kept military cemeteries. St Martin's Cathedral is an extraordinary example of the resilient spirit of the inhabitants of Ypres. I found the church beautifully restored and very solemn. Another interesting church is the St George Memorial Church. It is an Anglican church that also serves as a memorial for the fallen Commonwealth soldiers. It is decorated with gifts from the families and military divisions/institutions. Within the city limits there are two cemeteries that you could visit: Ypres Reservoir Cemetery (only from outside) and the Rampart Cemetery Lille Gate.

I suggest to spend one night in Ypres since it is relatively far away from Brussels. The best day is Saturday and it is even better if you could be there for the morning market. The market itself is an attraction and if it is sunny you could go to the restaurant In t'klein Stadhuis and ask for a delicious Rundsstoofvlees made with a Trappist Rochefort. You will not regret it. As it is customary in Belgium there are plenty of places when you could buy excellent chocolate. You could combine a visit to Ypres with a visit to Lille (one hour, eleven minutes) or Courtrai (thirty minutes). If you decide to go to Courtrai, there is a place where they sell burgers with spicy chocolate sauce! (Paul's Boutique). Ypres is an excellent destination, do not miss the chance to visit the city in this historical moment. 

Relax, You are in The Hague

The Hague is the perfect alternative for the frantic Amsterdam. If Amsterdam is crowded, cheerful, strident, the Hague is mellow, harmonious and much more sober. You will not find here the typical young crowd looking for drugs and "fun" (at least not much). Tourism in the Hague is oriented towards culture and relaxation. I have visited the city twice and it is one of my favorites. In my opinion, the best time to visit The Hague is summer when you can visit the Scheveningen beach  and enjoy good weather. 

The Hague is the "political capital" of the Netherlands. Therefore one of the main attractions is the Binnenhof (picture above) which are several buildings that correspond to the Executive and Legislative branches of the Dutch Government. It is possible to visit the Binnehof inside (at least the Ridderzaal, the main building of the complex) but I have never done the tour because they only offer it in Dutch (surprisingly). Recently I checked their website and apparently they provide audioguides for the tourist (but you are still obliged to be within the tour in Dutch). 

If Amsterdam has the Rijksmuseum; The Hague has several museums that will be the envy of any major city. The two times I have been in the Hague, the Mauritshuis Museum was closed for renovation. Hence, I can only review the Gemeentemuseum which exhibited part of the Mauritshuis' collection. There are three major works of arts that you must see while you are in the Hague:   Johannes Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring; Rembrandt's Anatomy Lessons and Victory Boogie-Woogie the last work (unfinished) by Piet Mondrian.  The Gemeentemuseum also has a vast collection of De Stijl in addition to Mondrian and many objects from Batavia (Jakarta).  There are other museums that I did not visit. I specially regret not visiting the Escher Museum (next time, I promise!).

I strongly recommend to visit the "Peace Palace" (the current headquarters of the International Court of Justice and the International Court of Arbitration). The building is very beautiful inside and it is decorated with gifts that come from many nations. You can only visit the building within a guided tour and photography is not allowed inside. You will learn about how these courts mediate between parts involved in international conflicts.

For those who love nature, there are two huge parks inside the city. You could go to the Haagse Bos or you could cross the Schevingse Bosje walking a long the channel and reach to the beach. There is a bonus inside this path, the Madurodam, a museum of minuture buildings. A good trip to the Hague includes both culture and nature.

Regarding the food, well, The Hague is in The Netherlands which pretty much sum it up the available choices. You could spend a fortune to eat decently or you can take a risk. My best meal was in a chinese/indonesian/korean restaurant close to the Haagse Markt (one of the largest outdoor market in Europe). There is a large diversity of food from Asia.  A safe option in The Hague is chicken Satay. Of course, there is always an Albert Heijn (Supermarket chain) near that could save the day.

A trip to The Hague could be combined with a trip to Delft (where you could buy this beautiful blue-white pottery) or even Rotterdam. If you wan to experience the Netherlands in a different way, The Hague is certainly  a great choice.

Mons, the hidden jewel of Wallonia

It is nine o'clock, Saturday morning and you are in the train to Ostende. You barely can walk, all the seats are taken; the train is full of tourists that will get out in Brugges. Once you arrive, you and many others will walk from the train station to central Brugges; some people might walk fast to avoid the cues others will take a low pace, trying to enjoy the city. This scene repeats almost every weekend in Belgium. There is nothing wrong with that, but if you have already been to Brugges and Ghent, I propose you to take an alternative path and discover a quaint small town in Wallonia: Mons. 

It takes 51 minutes to arrive to Mons from Bruxelles Central almost at the same distance from Brugges (one hour) but both cities are very different. Mons does not have the channels of Brugges but if you are looking for something different and special, Mons is a good choice. It has a Belfry (in the picture) classified as a World Heritage Site; a couple of good museums (decorative and painting), a charming mini "Grand Place" one magnificent church and nearby a mining facility also classified as a world heritage by the UNESCO. 

In my opinion, the main attraction of Mons is the Sainte-Waudru church. It is a Gothic masterpiece with many treasures inside. I have two favorite objects inside the church. One of them is a beautiful golden carriage that apparently is used once in a year for a procession. In addition to the altarpieces, statues, stained glasses and liturgical objects there is this weird painting; extremely modern and it looks like a "Gorillaz" work of art. This picture is hidden in one of the Chapels so you better pay attention!

This strange picture is inside the church, very surrealist representation of the crucifixion of Christ, eh? 

If you do not have a car and want a little adventure I recommend to visit by bus "Le Grand Hornu" a former mining complex near Mons. You can take the bus 7 from the train station to this complex but you need first to confirm the bus schedule at Infotec. It is a Unesco World Heritage because "Le Grand Hornu" was a site where new ideas for mining were tested and workers lived in conditions that were considered luxuries by the time the mining facility was built. Today, le Grand Hornu has the contemporary art collection of the French speaking community of Belgium. The area is beautiful and surprisingly empty. (I was alone most of the time). When I visited the museum, they had a temporary exhibition about Alver Aalto Lamps and retrospective of the best  contemporary art exhibited by this institution. The complex has also a nice restaurant.

Mons is a hidden gem to be discovered. The city has many restaurants to choose from and the traditional Belgian specialties are as always delicious (good beer, gauffres, frites etc.) Mons is a fun and different daytrip from Bruxelles which you can enjoy calmly without the frenzy of other destinations. 

Sao Paulo is ugly but sexy

Klaus Wowereit, the former Major of Berlin said that "Berlin ist arm, aber sexy" (Berlin is poor but sexy). Paraphrasing Wowereit, I would said that Sao Paulo is an ugly sexy city. Ugly because it is a concrete jungle with a incoherent layout with many hideous rundown buildings and a crazy transportation system that could test the nerves of experienced travelers. Sexy because it is one of the most interesting and fascinating cities that you could visit as long as you have an open mind to observe the beauty behind this human made chaos. 

I traveled to Sao Paulo in 2013 for a conference and I stayed there for eight days which I enjoyed to the fullest. This a destination for the very experienced travelers. The first thing you will notice it is that the Guarulhos Airport seems to be stuck in the 80's. It feels like time traveling. Finding your luggage is an odyssey. Once you are out,  you might experience a traffic jam of epic proportions depending of the hour of your arrival. Don't leave the airport without eating a delicious pao de queijo and a Guarana Antartica; these would give you the strength you need to reach to the city center 

The main street in Sao Paulo is "Avenida Paulista"; it reminds me New York. You will see many interesting buildings and helicopters. The rich people of Sao Paulo do not drive fancy cars they fly to avoid traffic; it is quite an spectacle. The area is very walkable and has many places to visit. The main attraction is the Museum of Modern Art of Sao Paulo (MASP). In my opinion, the best museum of European Art in Latin America. It has wonderful collection of Modigliani paintings and the building itself is a work of art. I recommend to eat your lunch there, the museum's restaurant has a delicious buffet. You can also go to the near Jardins, an upper class neighborhood, where you can have lunch or buy at exclusive stores if you can afford it. 

Sao Paulo is the cultural capital of Brazil. There are many museums in addition to the MASP. One of my favorites is the Pinacoteca do Estado when you could discover great Brazilian painters.When I visited this museum I was delighted with Antonio Henrique Amaral, an excellent painter with a thought-provoking work. Near the Ibrapuera park you will find the Bienal  Pavilion (with temporal exhibitions) and the MAM (modern Art, for those with special tastes) . Apparently there is also the Museum of Contemporary Art (I did not visit this one) also close to Ibrapuera. The Ibrapuera is one of the most interesting city parks of Brazil with some buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer. There are also private and public art foundations : Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, FIESP, Sao Paulo Cultural Center, Institute Tomie Ohtake among many others. You will need more than a week to see everything. However, if you want to enjoy Art for free you need to go to Boca do Batman. Sao Paulo has one of the coolest graffitti scenes in Latin America, and probably in the world.  

Bienal Pavilon

Graffiti Boca do Batman

It is not a secret that Sampa is a foodies'paradise. It has a large proportion of the best restaurants of Brazil. However, these are for the rich. I found that the local eateries, where the employees go for lunch break, serve delicious food at very affordable prices. You need to try the salgadinhos, these little appetizers made from pork, cheese or chicken are quite tasty. Italian food is another good option in Sao Paulo. Apparently, there were many migrants from Italy at the end of the 19th  century leaving a large culinary legacy (Sao Paulo's pizza is quite good).  For breakfast, try tapioca, a kind of crepe made from yucca, and of course, you need to eat fruit while in Brazil. Fogo de Chao is a restaurant chain that I recommend; it is one of these experiences that you will never forget. One final advice: go to the market and ask for a mortadela sandwich, but make sure that you are very hungry before ordering.

There are many additional interesting things to see and do in Sao Paulo, like Libertade (Japanese town), la livraria cultura, la Sala Sao Paulo, the nightlife, the huge shopping centers among others that deserve their own review but I will leave these for you to discover. Regarding the issue of security, I never felt unsafe in Sao Paulo but you need to be aware of your surroundings and use common sense. Be careful, specially at night, there are some areas that you should never visit after the sunset and always use a radio taxi. Sao Paulo is an underrated destination soon to be discovered. The city just needs to fix some issues regarding transportation and safety.

Liege, the Bilbao of Belgium

Liège is where I live since 2012. I have a lot of affection to this city. Before I moved here, I lived five years in Barcelona. This was a drastic change and I have a rough period to adjust. I recognize that it was not love at first sight. This is an industrial city, with a lot of gray, some eye-sore buildings and plenty of bad weather. Nevertheless, I am a witness of the transformation of Liège in a modern and attractive city without losing its essence.

When tourist visit Belgium they tend to go to two places: Brussels and Brugges. Surprisingly, when I spoke with my Belgian friends, most of them agreed that Ghent (Gent or Gand) is the most attractive and beautiful town in Belgium (I agree). It used to be "underrated" but the secret is out (specially during summer). Antwerp  (Anvers)  is also another beautiful city, that has been neglected. Nonetheless, Flemish cities are much popular than Wallon towns. Fewer people visit Liège, Namur, Mons or Tournai which is a pity because of the charm and historic value of these cities.

The historical background of Liège is immense and it goes back to the Romans. It would be very difficult to summarize the history of Liège in one paragraph or two. I am just going to give  you some highlights:  Liège was the capital of a country, the prince-bishopric of Liège, one of the most democratic states of Europe during the Medieval times. It was an strategic town during the Napoleonic war and one of the most industrialized cities due to the mining activity. Liège suffered tremendously during the First World War. The city was under siege by the German troops during several days. The heroic resistance has been recognize in many ways. Liège has one of the few monuments financed by all the allies during the World War I. It is called : Monument Interallié. Unfortunately, it is open to the public only two times during the year.

Liège also suffered during the Second World War. The city was occupied by the German troops, it was liberated and afterwards bombarded. After the war, Liège underwent a painful process of de-industralization. The negative effects of this process  has been the inspiration of the filmmaker duo, the Dardenne Brothers, for movies like "The Promise" or more recently "Two days, one night".

Nowadays, the city is trying to recover its vitality. It has benefited from several investments in infrastructure. Liège is an international city, it is less than one hour from Germany or Netherlands. The Thalys that goes to Cologne stops in Liège (you have a direct connection with Paris). It has one of the most awe-inspiring train stations that I have ever seen. It was designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava (one of the few Calatrava buildings that I like). However, in my opinion, what really saved Liège is the University. Every year many students come to the city, providing the dynamism and energy that lacks other cities in Wallonia like Charleroi. 

Liège has many "incontournables" that will be the delight of the tourists. I will start with the churches. Liège was governed for many years by archbishops so you can imagine that there are plenty of churches to visit. My favorites are the Cathedral, l'eglise de Saint-Jacques and Saint-Martin (difficult to visit, it is not open regularly). There is a very good museum called "Musée Curtius" which used to be the house of an important industrialist. It has a mixed collection of artifacts, furniture, paintings and archaeological objects. I call it the "mini Victoria & Albert" museum of Liège. It is huge for Liège standards. There are two museums of Arts but one of them is currently being restored. 

One of the best parts of visiting Liège is the food. I do not think you could eat better in any other city in Belgium. Since there is not too much tourism, restaurants need to cater local clientele. Furthermore, Liège received an enormous amount of immigrants from Italy during the mining boom. After the de-industrialization, many of those immigrants opened Italian restaurants throughout the city. My favorite restaurants are Vin-sur-vin, le Dix-huitième, (French, Belgian) l'European and la Bambola (for Pizza), Huggies and Les Fous d'en Face (for Burgers), Les Frites ("belgium fries"); Pollux (Gauffres), André and Poivre et Sel (Sandwiches), La Chaisse au Plafond (Croissant aux noissetes)  le Vaudree (a huge menu of beers) Punto e Pasta (lassagne della nona) and Glacier Franchie (for the chocolate milkshake). 

I could have written the article with another title; Liège is also "the Bologna of Belgium". Many of the Belgium specialties have their origin here. There is the famous gauffre de Liège, le sirop de Liège (a fruit sirop), les boulets liégeoises (meatballs covered in a sauce made from sirop de Liège), la salade liégeoise (green beans, potatoes,lard), le cafe liégeois (a dessert made with coffee ice cream) and of course "le liégeoise" (orange Fanta with grenadine sirop) . Other popular regional dishes, that are not exclusive from Liège are chicon au gratin, le jamboneau, le vol-au-vent avec poulet, le spaghetti bolo (bolognese sause, influence from Italy), le fondue parmesan (it is actually croquettes made of cheese), la carbonade flamande (Stoofvlees) among others. Try to spend a Sunday in Liège, then you will see  one of the  largest outdoor market in Europe, the well known "la Batte" People from all over Belgium, Netherlands and Germany come to this market every Sunday. You will see the tremendous influence of Italy in Liège.

Liège is known as well as "la cité ardent" although the name comes from a horrible historical episode (the city was burned by "Charles le Téméraire, Duke of Burgundy) the name now symbolizes the strong spirit liégeois and the wild and sometimes rough festivities.. If you are here during Thursdays you will see how wild it could be. Le carré is the main area for going out in Liège. I personally don't like it so much because it is mainly oriented toward young students but if you are younger than 25, you will love it. There are many musical activities during the year: Les Ardents et les Transardents, la fête de la musique, la fête de Wallonie, Jazz à Liège,  les epicuriales, and for me the best cultural activity : la journée du Patrimoine. Liège also has one of the best Christmas markets in Belgium where you can taste Tartiflettes, Toast aux Champignon and many other delicacies.There is also "La Foire d'Octobre" which is basically an attraction park in the middle of the city. This is the time of the year when people buy the famous "lacquemants" a kind of thin gauffre covered in sirop (Be careful with the sugar!). Liège has an Opera and Concert hall for the Philharmonic Orchestra and three movie theaters for independent films (Grignoux)

The best time to come to Liège is during the music festivals (early summer), early autumn and during Christmas markets. I would try to come during la Journée du Patrimoine because you can visit many attractions that are closed to the public during the year (le Palais du Prince-Eveques, le Monument Interallié, le Collegiale de Saint-Croix). Liège could be your base to explore Aachen (wonderful underrated city) and Maastricht (über-posh dutch town). You can also visit the neglected Leuven, explore the exuberant Ardennes (nature) that has so many hidden jewels like castles (Château de Jehay, Château de Modave), Abbeys (Stavelot, Val-Dieu) and walking circuits in "Le Pays de Herve" (you need a car for this).  Liège is a great city and I certainly will miss it when I leave.

Metz will teach you a lesson in Architecture

Metz, (it is pronounced "mess" with an open e) is one of the most beautiful and charming cities of France. It is located in Lorraine, a highly disputed territory between France and Germany. It feels "Germanic" like a town of Bavaria. Very small and compact; I recommend maximum two nights unless you want to do daytrips to Nancy and Luxembourg, then it is possible to stay longer. 

If you are an architect or like architecture, then you will adore this city. Metz is an open-air museum for architecture styles. You can see Romanic, Neoclassical, Renaissance, Gothic,  Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modern. Despite being so eclectic, everything works harmoniously, There are several monuments and buildings that have been declared cultural patrimony of France.

Metz has two main attractions. The first is the magnificent Cathedral of Saint-Etienne de Metz. It has one of the largest amount of stained-glass windows in the world. It is a Gothic masterpiece that you must visit while in Metz.  The interior reminds me the Cathedral of Cologne, since the main nave is so high that makes you feel very tiny. The second attraction is the Centre Pompidou, Metz. It was designed by Shigeru Ban, a Japanese architect, recipient of the Pritzker prize of Architecture, kind of the "Nobel of Architecture." There were very few people when I visited the Museum, so you can enjoy it at your pace. The Centre Pompidou Metz does not have a permanent collection. During my visit, they have a very interesting exhibition about the forms & shapes in Arts. The exhibition analyzes how different artists have incorporated forms from nature, mathematics and the human body into their works of art.

When in Metz, you should try the Quiche Lorraine, le flammkuchen (It is similar to a pizza without the sauce tomato) , the Riesling wine, and the tarte aux mirabelles (a kind of plum, that is yellowish and very sweet). Prices are high (French standards) so, eating out will cost you at least 15 euros per person (being very austere). You need to visit Metz market, they have delicious produits du terroir (local products) as well as a soup stand that it is well known in the region. If you decide to visit Metz, you should include Nancy as well. Nancy has one of the most beautiful squares in Europe.  

Graz, the best kept secret of Austria

There is much more to see in Austria besides Vienna and Salzburg. Despite that Vienna can be considered as an "underrated city" since it has all the opulence of Paris without the massive influx of tourism, Graz in my point of view is even more neglected. Graz is the second city of Austria. It has a Eastern Europe vibe.  You can go there by train (OEBB) or by bus (Westbus, Eurolines) Although, I fully recommend the trip by train since it is very scenic and comfortable; you will not stop taking pictures while in the train.

Graz is a very walkable and compact city and it has an excellent public transportation system. I got the feel that I was in Bohemian city (It reminds me Prague, I do not why). Graz is close to Slovenia so you could do a day trip to Maribor. There are many local specialities that you should try while in Graz (e.g. Go to Hofbackerei Edegger-Tax and try the Sissi-Busserl biscuit, it is a must)  and plenty of attractions to visit. The Cathedral of Graz is much more awe-inspiring than the Karlskirche in Vienna.  Graz holds the second largest collection of Art in Austria after the Belveder collection.  This collection is spread in several locations, in the province of Styria (Universalmuseum Joanneum). The main attraction is the Schloss Eggenberg, a magnificent Baroque Palace in the outskirts of the city. The palace symbolizes a calendar with 365 windows, 24 state rooms and 52 rooms in total. 

In summary, the city is pleasant, beautiful, with many cultural attractions, young (it is a college-town), with several musical venues. And the best part is that you can explore the country side of Styria that is wonderful. 

Hate against tourists

Paris, London, Barcelona, Berlin,  Prague,... VENICE. All of them magnificent cities with wonderful monuments, excellent restaurants and...hordes of tourists. It has become the hot topic of the season. People are complaining about tourists, which seems paradoxical since most of the complainers also travel as well and probably "behave like tourists". The issue has triggered protests in Barcelona, tons of hate through the web, new laws and regulations in several cities specifically targeting services like AirBnb or trying to impose bans to shops and restaurants oriented toward tourists.

The protesters have some reasons to complain. Some people are very rude, specially those who travel to do what is forbidden in their home countries. I have seen tourists vomiting in the streets, making noise, waking up the whole neighborhood and even having sex in public. There is also other side effects of tourism that are not so evident. In particular, prices increase in touristic cities and the quality of the food diminishes. The reason is simple, restaurant owners do not have to worry about attracting clients since most of their clients are one-timers who probably will never eat again in their restaurants . There is plenty of supply so it is cheap to deceive. That is why you need to use the internet to find a decent restaurant in Paris or Barcelona.

Furthermore, this massification of tourism intensifies xenophobia. Anglosaxon tourists (specially British) are known as "guiris" in Spain. They are considered the worst kind of tourist because of their wild behavior in places like Majorca or Canary Islands. There is much hate against Italians and Americans for being loud, Chinese for having bad manners (that is what I heard) and to the French and Germans for being ... French and German.

I decided to create this blog for those of you who want  an alternative from these "beautiful hells", feel welcomed, pay reasonable prices for food and lodgement, avoid long cues, and be able to see "something" inside the museums. These underrated cities might not have the opulence, the charm or the diversity of the mainstream destinations but their offer is quite good and you will be able to enjoy them at your own pace.